Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 31
  1. #1
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default strange goings on in my sp

    ok, so i finally got the 'doo back to the house to start repairs. i have it taken apart somewhat to see the damage. the shaft looks ok. the needle bearings are shot for sure. they only turn one way. thats not the problem. i can solve that with new needle bearings and a new seal.

    problem 1: there is a mystery line coming from the exhaust under the air box, and i have no idea what it was connected to. it was snaked under the drive shaft back to the starboard side. it was definately connected to something. just what i have no idea. on the exhaust, its the smaller upper tube above the water cooling hose.

    problem 2: when i pulled the ski out of the garage, i noticed a really bad gas smell. like if i lit a match, i would blow the garage up (i don't smoke). so when i pulled it out, gas started coming out of the port thru hull. poking around in the front of the 'doo shows that the thru hull is connected to a hose that is connected to the water trap tank in 2 places. there is a smaller line from the tank, with some kind of valve or filter, going to the gas tank. is that inline object a check valve? should i have gas coming out of that thru hull?

    overall the repairs should be easy to make. i even have to go hunting seaweed in the intake.

  2. #2
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    figured out the mystery line thanks to the microfiche. i am so smrt!

    also figured out from the fiche that there is a check valve in that gas line. and its not working. simple fix for now is not to prop the trailer up level. if i leave it down, gas runs away from the pickup

    now just taking apart the drive system. far too many bolts. and i need a long 3/8" extension.

  3. #3
    Administrator Jetlag's Avatar
    Location
    Vancouver, B.C.
    PWC
    Superjet
    Posts
    488

    Default

    I put a parts finder on the forum but you should get the Manual for your ski. It will tell you all the parts and torque specs.

  4. #4
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    yeah i've been looking. harder to find for the older stuff. i wish i had the same sources like i have for my bike. you name it, you can download it.

  5. #5
    Member
    Location
    Ontario
    PWC
    '98 Challenger 1800 Wake
    Posts
    54

    Default

    you can try www.ronnies.com

    they have their online fiche which can help somewhat...
    You should have two check valves - one to allow air into the tank, one to allow air to escape (if you park it in the sun)

    Since they run "up" from the tank, you still shouldn't have a leak unless the tank is totally full, and even then it would be minimal.

    Make sure the lines are hooked up correctly to the baffle. I've seen guys (even from factory) hook up the return from the carbs to the vent which pisses all the fuel in the return circuit out the side of the boat.

    Gabe
    www.JetR.ca

  6. #6
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    thanks jetr. ronnies points to the same riva fiche. i've been looking at them to get a better idea of what is going on.

    i really don't get why there is a water tank forward. its not like it has a stopcock on it to hold water for ballast. the line from the gas tank to the water tank has a check valve in it. it may be just bunged up. you'd think the breather line at the top of the hull would have a check valve in it in case of a flip, and be the only one.

    the fuel tank was totally full, and the trailer was propped up so the fuel pickup would have been completely submerged.

    bigger question. i have almost all of the impeller unit apart in order to replace the seal. 38 billion bolts. and no one told me about the oil in the impeller cap! now do i need that one last fastner off (under that cap) to remove the housing.. or will it all slide out with the shaft? where can i get a good grip to remove it should it need removal? the flywheel?

  7. #7
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    haha! i win! impeller is off. wow was that sillycone THICK! i was yanking on it for over an hour. yes, at midnite. i was bored. i managed to get it to wiggle, but the silicone was holding it on strong. i made a handle out of some rope and attached it to the impeller housing with bolts, got on my back, put my feet on the transom, and PULLED! out it came.

    i will try to post up some pics shortly of the damage in the seal carrier. my speculation was correct. the needle bearings were destroyed. the shaft looks ok as far as i am concerned. nothing to be afraid of i don't think. new needle bearings, new single and double ring seals, maybe, but not likely, new seal carrier, new shaft seal, proper grease, and its good to go!

  8. #8
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    i have a chance to get some parts really really cheap (like 10% of replacement). a full drive seal assembly, and a drive shaft. yes, used, but still in far better condition than my stuff.

    question is, will 91 xp parts interchange with sp parts? they do look identical in every way.

  9. #9
    Member
    Location
    Ontario
    PWC
    '98 Challenger 1800 Wake
    Posts
    54

    Default

    I'm guessing you have a 91 as well...

    Everything should be the same... you can probably get a WSM seal/bearing set from a local dealer and the driveshafts usually clean up well on a wire brush.

    Make sure the driveshaft your getting is straight or you'll get a vibration.

    And remember to GREASE the new stuff regularly.

    Good work though, you just saved a ton of $$$

  10. #10
    Member
    Location
    vancouver bc
    Posts
    180

    Default

    yeah, best i can figure is its a 91. the fiche shows a lot of common parts between 90, 91, and 92.. so i am not 100% sure. i check the body diagrams to be sure about things.

    does anyone know the needle bearing number? not the seadoo stock #. the local dealer wants about $90 for the two seals, bearing, and boot. the seals i think i have to eat no matter what, but the rest i should be able to source elsewhere cheaper.. or hopefully i win on ebay.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •