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Thread: 2000 rpm

  1. #1

    Default 2000 rpm

    help. any suggestions on what happend. was crusing 45mph, for a wile when al of a sudden it shut down, then all i could get was 2000 rpm. if i gave more or less throttle it would stall it felt like it would flood and stall. it beeing a 1998 seadoo gtx ltd.any ideas

  2. #2
    Member Jet-x's Avatar
    Location
    GTA
    PWC
    95 xp800
    Posts
    43

    Default

    First thing, try a new set of plugs. If no better then do a compression test.
    If compression is good, I then next take a look at the carbs and case reeds

    Ryan@Jetx
    www.jetx.ca
    647-280-7850

  3. #3

    Default

    found out the fuel filter was dirty so ended up taking the fuel tank out there was a little piece of black horse about 3/4 of an inch long and round piece that looked like what comes out of the inside of an oil cap or other and quit a bit of debre on the bottom of tank. so after that tried running on the hose in driveway and it reved up realy good and idled fine , only ran it for 2 min. took to the river and the same thing had a hard time keeping it idling at 2000 rpm would stall if I gave it more gas or if let throttle go it would quit. took home one of the plugs was loose tightend plu and put on hose ran fine took to river and the same senareo al over again. [now what might be the problem ]

  4. #4
    Member MRK's Avatar
    Location
    Mississauga,ONT
    PWC
    KAWI X2, GP1200
    Posts
    109

    Default

    Lack of fuel might explain your problems. Maybe dirt travelled past your clogged fuel filter and is restricting some of the passages inside the carburators. I suggest disassembling and cleaning the internals of your carbs, and installing new carb rebuild kits since the PWC is more than 10 years old.
    Did you perform a compression test on the engine? (A 'hurt' engine will perform poorly)
    Last edited by MRK; 08-11-2010 at 07:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Member Jet-x's Avatar
    Location
    GTA
    PWC
    95 xp800
    Posts
    43

    Default

    Did you check compression? Also, pull the Rave Valves out and take look at the top end. Maybe you had a melt down

    Give me a call if you have any questions. I will be more than happy to explain

    Ryan@JetX
    www.jetx.ca
    647-280-7850


    Quote Originally Posted by top fuel View Post
    found out the fuel filter was dirty so ended up taking the fuel tank out there was a little piece of black horse about 3/4 of an inch long and round piece that looked like what comes out of the inside of an oil cap or other and quit a bit of debre on the bottom of tank. so after that tried running on the hose in driveway and it reved up realy good and idled fine , only ran it for 2 min. took to the river and the same thing had a hard time keeping it idling at 2000 rpm would stall if I gave it more gas or if let throttle go it would quit. took home one of the plugs was loose tightend plu and put on hose ran fine took to river and the same senareo al over again. [now what might be the problem ]

  6. #6
    Member
    Location
    POCO, BC
    PWC
    97 787 gtx/97 720 gti
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I wouldn't run it anymore until you A: clean the fuel system (completely) ,B: do a compression test. If the compression is low in one cylinder yuo won't run worth a crap in the water, but on land it will run great (no load)...

    I had this on my GTX and after passing the easy test (compression) many of us felt like idiots (dead cylinder) lol

    It only taks a sec and it a great starting point. That being said a Lean situation wil destroy your engine...sooo don't starve it with a dirty fuel system/air leaks as it will cost you $$$ in the end.

    Cheaper to fix the problem than repair the carnage.....

    Good luck
    1997 Seadoo GTX
    1997 Seadoo GTI
    1997 Maxum 2000 SRL Ski Boat

  7. #7

    Default

    just replaced top end the other problems were b/c of a blown piston. now that being said I find myself in the same boat. on the hose it revs and idles nice, but as soon as put in the water it will hardly even idle acuatually itwont, have to work at it to keep running.So thus far cleaned fuel tank took carbs apart cleaned and new gaskets etc [cab kit]. now just replaced pistons. I realize that the carburators will still need to be fine tuned but why is there such a difference from driveway to water. getting flusterd.

  8. #8

    Default back again.

    well a year later and no better off. after what i had done my self and still not running proper. took to locall shop spent 1000$, got to use it once at end of the year.They soaked the carbs for 9 hours and after i got it back it was a little slugish off the line but then would be ok once gave it gas. that being said took out yesterday, started in driveway ran fine for a couple of minuets, took to water got 300yrds and stalled. would not run at all unless i held the choke open. got home tried to start it would run with choke open then i could let the choke out it would reve to about 3500rpm and then die, it would this repeatedly till i gave up. any sugestions would be greatly appreaciated. $1000 a ride is a little much.

  9. #9
    Member
    Location
    Cornwall Ont.
    PWC
    1997 Seadoo GTS
    Posts
    10

    Default Ultrasonic carb cleaner

    Some thoughts for your problem.

    On various pieces of small engine equipment, over the years I have been plagued with carb issues. The latest was on a riding mower at my daughter's home one hour away. I dragged that mower down the highway bringing it back to my shop where I would clean the carbs. All would seem OK so I would haul it back but before long the problem reappeared.

    Then I found a small engine guy with an ultrasonic bath for cleaning carbs. It is like jewelers use for cleaning rings etc. The bath uses a water and detergent solution and the carb sits in the vibrating bath for perhaps 30 minutes.

    It is really like a miracle for carbs with small passages which may be clogged. I take the carbs apart and he soaks them for $15 then I put them back together.

    On my Seadoo (1997 GTS 717 engine) I have chased problems which appear fuel related but later found a weak spark to be the culprit. When the load on the engine is low, the cylinder pressures are low and a weak spark will be OK but when the throttle is wide open and cylinder pressures high, the energy is too weak to jump the spark plug gap.

    Years ago when cleaning spark plugs with an abrasive blast was the norm, I had a machine sold by Champion Spark plugs. First you would blast the plug and then, using compressed air, and with a high voltage lead on the plug, raise the chamber air pressure until the spark could not jump the plug gap. There was a mirror and a window in the chamber so I could see the plug. What this taught me was the effect of air pressure in an engine on a plug's ability to fire. A static test with the plug laying on top of the engine and producing spark does not ensure all is OK.

    I have rambled on a lot. Suspect the ignition side of things when a lot of effort has been put into the carbs with no result. If a brand new plug appears to make things better for a few minutes and then your problem returns it is further proof of weak spark.

    I don't profess to know all 2 stroke Seaddo engines but in most or all of the ignition systems there will be a coil behind the flywheel which is independent of the three coils used to charge the battery. This single coil sends a timed high voltage pulse to the CDI ignition module which is the unit where the spark plug wires come from.

    The coil is not expensive but you need a special flywheel puller to get at it. The CDI unit is easy to get to but expensive.

    What the choke does unrelated to its role in starting the engine with a richer fuel mix is to lower the pressure in the cylinders by restricting how much air gets into the cylinders. It can make a weak spark problem appear to be a fuel problem.

    Dave p




    Quote Originally Posted by top fuel View Post
    well a year later and no better off. after what i had done my self and still not running proper. took to locall shop spent 1000$, got to use it once at end of the year.They soaked the carbs for 9 hours and after i got it back it was a little slugish off the line but then would be ok once gave it gas. that being said took out yesterday, started in driveway ran fine for a couple of minuets, took to water got 300yrds and stalled. would not run at all unless i held the choke open. got home tried to start it would run with choke open then i could let the choke out it would reve to about 3500rpm and then die, it would this repeatedly till i gave up. any sugestions would be greatly appreaciated. $1000 a ride is a little much.

  10. #10

    Default good to know

    thanks dave that is something i will look into.

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